The travel bug stung hard once again and the bags were packed as we were all set to embark on a journey to a place that boasts of being the cleanest city in the country - INDORE (Madhya Pradesh). After all, which better place to kick-start our travel journey for the year 2022 than this... starting on a clean slate in literal terms!!
For the studious kind, Indore is the only city in India which is having both an IIT and an IIM.
The city understandably holds this label with utmost pride and winning the coveted award has become a habit for the people of Indore as it has won the prestigious award not ONCE but FIVE TIMES CONSECUTIVELY under the "Swachhta Survekshan." Hearing and reading about it was one thing and witnessing it by our own eyes was an entirely different experience which I will share in my blog ahead.
So we reached Indore at 10 A.M. by overnight train from Delhi. Right from the time we got down at the railway station to the time we reached our hotel, we could see why the city tops the country's cleanest cities charts year after year.
There was not even a single pile of garbage outside any shop and the roads were spik and span throughout. The walls were covered with beautiful murals and paintings which were giving a unique aesthetic feel to the overall surroundings. Must say, smart work from the authorities and of course the residents.
On further inquiry from the taxi driver, we came to know that the Indorians are in no mood of letting go of the title and the city is all set to win the award the sixth time. He said the citizens themselves are quite proactive and make sure they pick up whatever waste they see lying on the roads and dump it in the nearby dustbins as they move around and even request others who litter to use dustbins as when required. Don't they say in Hindi "Jeet ek nasha hai"...this is one such example.
Moving on...we reached our pre-booked hotel- 'Playotel Premier' in Vijay Nagar slightly away (about 6 km) from the hustle and bustle of the city. Adjacent to Bombay Hospital, which is a landmark, The hotel is a superb property with warmly decorated rooms featuring a buffet restaurant and a game room. I strongly recommend it to whomsoever is traveling to this place. Our stay was relaxed, the food sumptuous and hospitality impeccable.
By this time we were hungry like hell so we quickly freshened up and were all set to move out for the fun as our taxi arrived. The taxi driver which dropped us at the hotel earlier offered to take us around during our stay in the city for the next three days which we happily agreed.
Our first stop was Indore's oldest eating place called "Chappan" at new Palasia. Now as the name suggests, it is an eating hole with 56 shops in a queue right after the other which offers a variety of street food in one place at a very nominal price. It is Food Lovers paradise and a must-visit place for all street foodies and my kids just loved the place as they ran around trying out one dish after the other. It was the best place to satiate our hunger as we were dying to taste the local delicacies. The place has been done up since the time I visited last about two decades ago. There is a lot of greenery around now with benches to sit and enjoy the food with friends and family. Earlier one could drive a vehicle right up to the shops but now as part of the Smart City project, the area has been developed as a smart food street and is devoid of any vehicular movement. Undoubtedly the market offers a much more relaxed experience now.
The market is up and running from 6 A.M . and serves mouthwatering local delicacies like Indori Poha and Jalebi, Garadu (a vegetable like sweet potato which is fried and served as crispy yam chaat), Bhutta Khees (grated corn cooked with milk, coconut, and spices served hot with masala, garnished with fresh coriander and lemon juice), Khopra Pattis (crispy, crunchy potato patties stuffed with a perfectly balanced sweet and savory coconut mixture served with chutney), Gulab Jamun, Hotdog, Indori Shikanji (made with milk, cream, and dry fruits) and much more till late in the evening.
We were told evenings are more colourful as people flock here with friends and families to enjoy and the overall atmosphere is quite a unique experience.
Our stomachs were full and we were all set for our first local destination which was - Rajwada. It is a historical palace built by the Holkars of the Maratha Empire about 200 years ago. This majestic seven-storied structure is a witness to the bygone splendour of the Holkar rulers of the Maratha Empire. It was burnt three times in its history; today only the front facade remains. Recent renovations have recreated some of the old glory of this beautiful palace. The front is still under renovation and the visitors can enter from a side entry.
One of the most unique and fun facts about the palace is that the Southern front of the structure showcases its Maratha influence while the Eastern front showcases the European influence.
As we entered the palace we were greeted by a courtyard surrounded by a covered verandah with wooden pillars all along. It gave a very south Indian feel to me. As the renovation is still going on most of the palace was closed. We could see a temple on the ground floor and a museum on the first floor which houses the details of the Maratha empire and the story of Ahilyabai depicted in the form of numerous miniature dolls. Apart from it multiple war weapons, Palkis, and huge utensils of that era are on display in the museum. Overall a well- maintained place and a must-visit for sure.
Just outside the front entrance which is being renovated is the statue of Ahilyabai Holkar in the middle of a small round park. Just behind the palace is the much-talked-about "Sarafa Bazar" situated, but more about it when we visit the place in my blog. Thoda to suspense rehna chahiye...
Next up was "Bade Ganpatiji Temple". This temple houses perhaps the largest Ganesh idol in the world measuring 25 feet from crown to foot. Created as a result of the dream of an Avantika (Ujjain) resident, Shri Dadhich, it was built in 1875. This temple is famous for its big bright coloured statue of Lord Ganesha. The statue is said to be made of a mixture of limestone, jaggery, bricks, and sacred soil and water from the major pilgrim.
After bowing our heads to the majestic Ganesha our next stop was "Kanch Mandir". This is a unique Jain temple, a must to add to your Indore sightseeing list. Though not a huge temple, its beauty lies in the fact that the entire temple is made of Belgian stained glass and mirrors – from the floor to the ceilings, stairs, and walls, everything is crafted out of gleaming glass pieces, giving it an aura of opulence.
The dazzling domed ceiling displays intricate designs crafted from glass pieces. Its grandeur is enhanced manifold when it is lit up with lights and candles on certain Jain festivals like Mahavir Jayanti. This Jain temple is an architectural marvel in glass. Atop is a special glass chamber that multiplies the three statues of Lord Shantinath, Aadinath and Mahavira installed there into an indefinite number (said to be visible up to 24 times, corresponding to the 24 Tirthankaras).
Next on the list was the iconic "Lal Bagh Palace". This majestic royal residence spread over a sprawling 28 acres is one of the best places to visit in Indore. At one time it had the reputation of having one of the best rose gardens in the country. Now converted to a museum displaying extraordinary exhibits from the glorious era, the Lal Bagh Palace should feature on your Indore travel itinerary.
It allows you to glimpse through the rich heritage of this historic city and gives you a taste of the lavish lifestyle of the Holkar rulers. This palace is hugely influenced by the European style of architecture and be prepared to be bowled over by grand Italian columns, gorgeous chandeliers, rich Persian carpets, and exquisite stained glass windows. A noteworthy feature is the use of elevators in those times to deliver food to the dining halls. Unfortunately, Cameras and Mobile phones are not allowed inside so we could not click pictures.
As we were exiting the Lal Bagh Palace our Taxi driver suggested taking us to a place nearby which hardly gets mentioned 'in-the-places-to-visit-in-Indore-list' but worth a visit. We were exhausted by now and were hungry too but eventually gave in to the driver's innocent suggestion.
We were taken to a residential colony and after maneuvering through several bylanes we reached to - guess where "Vaishno Mata Dham."
Yes...amid numerous residential houses was a splendid Mata Vaishno Devi temple in all its glory!! We got out of the taxi and stood there in disbelief for a moment. After thanking our taxi driver for bringing us here we quickly entered the temple.
As we moved in, we were directed into a serpentine cave just like in the original temple. The spiritual chanting of Bhajans, Shlokas amid the sound of wind and water flowing through the cave made the overall atmosphere magnificent and gives real peace of mind. There are numerous turns inside the cave where one has to crawl, stoop and walk carefully. In the mid, Ardh kunwari cave is also present. Stories tell that a sardarji in his dream saw maa Vaishno Devi on the land where this replica of a real temple is built. There is a Shiv Dham midway while climbing and then you reach the top where the sanctum of Mata Vaishno is situated. Unlike in the original Temple, you can sit here and admire the pindis for as long as you want. On the way down, there's a Sai Baba Dham as well. We came out of the temple all mesmerized and full of gratitude.
By this time we were feeling the hunger pangs real hard so we decided to have lunch at a nearby restaurant which was also suggested by our taxi driver. The food was okay-ish and after filling ourselves up again we moved towards "Sitlamata market". This market is a great hub for all kinds of ethnic wear and there are a numerous stores selling exquisite sarees and lehengas. The quality of fabric here is also much better and yet they are quite reasonably priced. You will find sarees of exquisite zari work or chikankari designs. We were predecided for what we were looking for. Wiffy bought a couple of famous Maheshwari Saree and suits as I absorbed the ambiance of the market.
After the shopping spree, we called it a day and directed our taxi driver to drop us at the hotel.
Day 2 began with an early breakfast at the hotel restaurant as we had planned for visiting Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga at Ujjain which is about 55 km from Indore and takes 1.5 hrs by road. Our taxi driver reached our hotel on time and we pushed off. During our ride as I researched about Ujaain more, I came to know that Ujjain is considered the Greenwich of India since the first meridian of longitude passes through it.
Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga is a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and is one of the twelve Jyotirlingams shrines which are said to be the most sacred abodes of Shiva. The idol of Omkareshwar Mahadev is consecrated in the sanctum above the Mahakal shrine. The images of Ganesh, Parvati, and Karttikeya are installed in the west, north, and east of the sanctum sanctorum. To the south is the image of Nandi, the vehicle of Shiva. The idol of Nagchandreshwar on the third floor is open for darshan only on the day of Nag Panchami. The temple has five levels, one of which is underground. The temple itself is located in a spacious courtyard surrounded by massive walls near a lake. It is believed that prasada (holy offering) offered here to the deity can be re-offered, unlike all other shrines.
After witnessing Lord Shiva in all its glory we moved towards nearby Ram ghat on the bank of Shipra River where Kumbh Mela is organized every 12 years. Ram ghat is the oldest bathing ghat in Ujjain. There are hundreds of Hindu shrines along the banks of the river Shipra which gives the ghat a very colourful ambiance.
Next up was Kal Bhairava temple. It is believed to have been built by King Bhadrasen, on the banks of river Shipra. The village of Bhairogarh, famous for its printing, takes its name from the temple and is located very near. As we reached the temple we witnessed a huge crowd in serpentine queues outside the temple. We braced ourselves and took our place in one of the rows leading to the temple. Eventually, after an hour we managed to have darshan.
Then after having lunch our taxi moved back in the direction of Indore. The driver dropped us at the hotel at 5 in the evening.After relaxing for a few hours we were up again to satiate our gastronomical fantasies. This time our destination was a place where Indore comes alive at night - the night street food market at Sarafa Bazar behind the Rajwada Palace. This market comes alive after 8 P.M. when the jewellery market closes down and runs till late into the night. This market is by far the most celebrated fooding landmark of Indore city. If you are a food lover this is the place to be.
Though no one is sure about the origin of this bazaar, it is believed that it started some 100 years ago and was encouraged by jewellery shop owners so the noise and bustle would secure their shops at night. With this in mind, they willingly started offering space in front of their shops to food vendors and, thus, Sarafa Bazar came into existence. Today, when most of Indore is asleep, this late-night market gets nearly 3000 visitors, both locals, and tourists. About 50 different dishes are available at Sarafa Bazaar. We savored Poha Jalebi, Sabudana Khichdi, Bhutte ki Kees, Garadu, Malpua, Khopra Patties, Dal Bafla, Dahi Vada, Rabdi, Gulab Jamun, Jaleba, Shrikhand, 10 flavours of pani puri, Kaanji Vada, Indori shikanji, and much more.
Sarafa Bazaar is a place that beckons food lovers to return, again and again, as much for the taste of its unique offerings as for the spirit of Indore’s storied culinary culture. A must-visit for ardent street food lovers!
After binging on so many dishes we had to walk halfway to our hotel right in the middle of the night before wiffey insisted to hop on the next available drive to the hotel. Our stomachs were on the verge of bursting but the experience we had was worth every ounce. With this, our 2nd day at Indore finally came to an end.
Day 3 began on a comparatively relaxed mode as this was our last day in this city. We had breakfast at the hotel and subsequently checked out.
Wait!! But this trip is still not over. Leaving our luggage at the hotel we hopped onto our waiting taxi and moved out to the last destination on our list - Khajrana Ganesh Temple.
It is believed that all wishes are fulfilled by praying in this temple. Highly revered by the local population, this beautiful Ganesh temple was built by the benevolent queen Ahilyabai Holkar. The citizens of Indore have great faith in this Ganesh temple. With a towering Ganesha statue and smaller temples dedicated to other deities, the beautiful and well-maintained temple complex exudes an aura of serenity and spirituality. This undoubtedly is one of the best places in Indore for stealing some tranquil moments and seeking the blessings of the almighty.
Fortunately for us, the best was kept for the last and must say, we were not at all disappointed. The temple is the real signature of what the city is... as clean as a whistle.
For those interested, a big cloth market industry has flourished in Indore. The city is also known for its leather toys, Maheshwari and Chanderi are some very interesting ornate sarees and brocades to offer. There is a lot of zari work coming out of Madhya Pradesh, and the Maheshwari sarees have particularly gained in popularity of late. Besides the fabrics, there is a variety of local carving crafts to choose from.
After the mandatory shopping for the kids, we moved back to the hotel to pick up our luggage before bidding goodbye to this incredible city with a promise to come back again. It was a memorable visit and loved by each member of our family.
Hope you liked this travel blog. If yes...please leave your valuable comment below and share it with your near and dear ones as well. Bye for now until the time I come up with my next blog.
Happy Reading!!